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By JOHN ROZENTALS

WINE: 2 OCTOBER 2014

Tyrrells 2009 HVD Semillon

Hunter Valley NSW | 10.8 per cent alcohol | $35

This is made from grapevines planted in 1908 by the Hunter Valley Distillery Company, in a Hunter vintage described as near-perfect.

Bruce Tyrrell reckons HVD is the fuller, softer member of his individual-vineyard semillons, and, having spent a couple of hours with him tasting the range, I'm certainly not going to disagree.

It’s a wine just starting to emerge from the cocoon that probably made it near-unapproachable in its youth and will remain an absolute joy to drink for many years yet..

Visit www.tyrrells.com.au.